The Huron shore
Aug. 3rd, 2006 06:14 pmThe eastern shore of Lake Huron is famous for its beaches and sunsets. We were not disappointed.
Falls Reserve Conservation Area, where we camped, is a five minute drive from Goderich. Thursday evening after we had pitched our tents and had dinner, we drove to the harbour. That particular beach is more picturesque than lovely, mostly stony with only a short strand of sand protected by a long breakwall. But it provided plenty of driftwood and sanded glass for my beachcomber daughter to scavenge while I admired the sky. The sunset that night was spectacular.
Night brought a thunderstorm and heavy rain. I discovered some small leaks in the fly of the large tent, not serious, but annoying enough that I had to move my sleeping bag to the edge of the tent. Thankfully it was a warm night.
Friday morning was cloudy. We decided to explore Pinery Provincial Park before weekend crowds got too heavy. It was a half hour drive under low, sodden clouds. Arriving at the park, we elected to hike Cedar Trail because it features oak savanna, plus an additional leg running to the beach. I expected rain and thunder to return at any moment, but it didn't. We made it all the way to the beach.
Pale, clean sand stretched as far as the eye could see in either direction, fading into mist. The beach was backed by low dunes and washed by lazy, clear waves. As we walked along, a purple bruise appeared over the western horizon. It grew larger and larger. The storm seemed bound to come upon us there, a 45 minute stroll from the car. Suddenly the purple turned to cerulean blue, the sky cleared and turned to a perfect beach day. We donned our bathing suits and went for a long play in the water. It was surprisingly clear and we had two soft sandbars to choose from. Unfortunately we hadn't brought sunblock, so we would both end up with sunburned shoulders and necks.
After dinner at the campsite, we returned to Goderich beach. Friday's sunset was less spectacular, but I enjoyed hearing a local pipe and drum band serenade the sun to its rest.
Saturday morning we toured downtown and walked through the historic gaol. Goderich and Guelph were both planned towns. Someone once told me the plans got mixed up. Guelph was supposed to get the unusual octagonal square and radial design. Instead it got a design suitable for a harbour. I don't know whether there's any truth to the tale, but Guelph is a strange city to get around in. It has swollen to a population of 110,000 since the mid 1800s, while Goderich remains a quiet, quaint town of 7,600. That octagonal square is well worth visiting, with antique shops, candy stores, and cafés spilling onto the sidewalk. Too bad about the ugly, behemoth Huron County Courthouse squatting in the middle. It's a 20th Century building, obviously designed without sentiment for the square's old-fashioned aesthetic.
Goderich is still uncommonly pretty, though not as striking as Seaforth a few kilometres up the road. At first I couldn't figure out what was so remarkable about that little town, then realized it was the lack of phone lines along the main drag. Elegant Victorian houses with wide lawns and perennial beds border the highway. Mature maples arch overhead, forming a cool green tunnel through the summer heat.
This camping trip was the least ambitious I've taken either of the girls on. We didn't have a packed agenda, and Brenna is mature enough I don't have to keep my eye on her constantly. Meals were prepared at leisure, rather than in a mad scramble. I let Brenna play pyromaniac, so I only had to sit and gaze into the fire. I had time to repair the tent fly somewhat, and wander around the campsite taking photos. I wrote my morning pages every day, which is especially important but harder to do when I'm occupied with new experiences.
I was reminded how relaxed I can be outdoors. Really, that's my element. It made me wish again for a simpler life, closer to nature. I would be more myself, with time to think and write about the things that matter. I need to make this happen.
